Amigurumi Raccoon Beret Free Crochet Pattern

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We share a beautiful beret pattern for both adults and children. It will protect your head and ears from the cold in winter. Follow us for Amigurumi leopard beret pattern and more patterns.

Crocheted in dark grey yarn, the face and mask-like features of the raccoon are worked in cream and black. The striped cords have the characteristics of the raccoon’s ringed tail. 

MATERIALS

Wendy Mode Chunky, 50% wool, 50% acrylic (153yd/140m per 100g ball)

2[2] x 100g balls in 244 Nightfall (A)

1[1] x 100g ball in 202 Vanilla (B)

1[1] x 100g ball in 220 Coal (C)

4.5mm (UK7:US7) and 5.5mm (UK5:USI/9) crochet hooks

2 x brown ¾[⅞]in (2[2.25]cm) diameter buttons

2 x black ½[⅝]in (1.25[1.5]cm) diameter buttons

Darning needle

Sewing needle

Black thread Small amount of toy stuffing

Thin card to make pompoms

SIZES

To fit: child, up to 20in (51cm) head circumference [adult, up to 22in (56cm) head circumference]

TENSION

13 sts and 14 rows to 4in (10cm) over double crochet on 5.5mm hook. Use larger or smaller hook if necessary to obtain correct tension.

METHOD

The main part of the hat is crocheted in one colour. The facial features are made in two curved sections worked in rows of double crochet that are shaped by increasing the stitches. The two pieces are joined using the main colour yarn and attached to the front of the hat. The ears are also made in two pieces and joined with a crocheted edging in a contrast colour. The button-shaped nose is worked in rounds. The twisted cords are made in two colours to produce the stripes, and the hat is fi nished with buttons for eyes and big pompoms.

MAIN PIECE

Both sizes

Starting at the top of the hat, with 5.5mm hook and A, follow the pattern for the leopard hat main piece on page 14

EARFLAP FACINGS (MAKE 2)

Omit if you plan to add a crocheted lining. Both sizes With 5.5mm hook and A, follow the earfl ap facing pattern as for the leopard hat on page 18.

Edging

With 4.5mm hook and A, follow edging pattern for the earfl ap facing on page 18.

FACE

Both sizes

With 5.5mm hook and B, make 2 ch.

Row 1: Work 2[3] dc into second ch from hook, turn (2[3] sts). Child size only

Row 2 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc) twice, turn (4 sts).

Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 1 dc) twice, turn (6 sts).

Row 4 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 2 dc) twice, turn (8 sts). Join in C.

Row 5: With C, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into each dc, turn.

Row 6 (inc): With C, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 3 dc) twice, turn (10 sts).

Row 7 (inc): With C, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 4 dc) twice, turn (12 sts).

Row 8 (inc): With C, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 5 dc) twice, turn (14 sts). Change to B.

Row 9 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 6 dc) twice, turn (16 sts).

Row 10: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into each dc, turn.

Adult size only

Row 2: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into each dc, turn.

Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc) 3 times, turn (6 sts).

Row 4 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 1 dc) 3 times, turn (9 sts). Join in C.

Row 5 (inc): With C, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 2 dc) 3 times, turn (12 sts).

Rows 6–7: With C, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into each dc, turn.

Row 8 (inc): With C, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 3 dc) 3 times, turn (15 sts).

Row 9: With C, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into each dc, turn. Change to B.

Row 10 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 4 dc) 3 times, turn (18 sts).

Row 11 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc, 5 dc) 3 times, turn (21 sts).

Both sizes

Edging

Join in A.

Next (RS): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc in each of the 16[21] dc, do not turn. Work 10[11] dc evenly down the edge of the piece, work 3 dc into the chain at the end, work 10[11] dc evenly up the edge of the other side, sl st into the fi rst dc (39[46] sts).

Fasten off .

Make one more to match the first.

Join pieces

Place the right sides together, matching the curved and straight edges. With 5.5mm hook, rejoin A and, starting at the corner of the curve, work 1 dc into each of the 12[13] dc down the straight edges of both pieces at the same time to join. Fasten off .

EARS (MAKE 2)

Both sizes

With 5.5mm hook and A, make 2 ch.

Row 1: Work 3 dc into second ch from hook, turn (3 sts).

Row 2 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc2inc, 1 dc, dc2inc, turn (5 sts).

Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc2inc, 1 dc in next 3 dc, dc2inc, turn (7 sts).

Row 4 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc2inc, 1 dc in next 5 dc, dc2inc, turn (9 sts).

Row 5 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc2inc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, dc2inc, turn (11 sts).

Row 6 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc2inc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, dc2inc, turn (13 sts).

Adult size only

Next (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc2inc, 1 dc in next 11 dc, dc2inc, turn (15 sts).

Next (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc2inc, 1 dc in next 13 dc, dc2inc, turn (17 sts).

Both sizes

Next: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc in each dc, turn. Rep last row once more. Do not fasten off .

Edging

Next (RS): Make 1 ch, work 1 dc into each stitch up the edge of the next 8[10] rows, work 3 dc into the ch at the tip of the ear, 1 dc into each stitch down the edge of the next 8[10] rows. Fasten off , leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Make one more ear piece to match the first.

Join ear pieces

Place the two ear pieces together with the wrong sides together. With 5.5mm hook and B, working into the stitches of the inner and outer ear pieces at the same time to join, make 1 ch, work 1 dc into each of the next 9[11] dc, dc2inc, 1 dc into each of the next 9[11] dc. Fasten off , leaving a length of yarn at the end.

NOSE

Both sizes

With 4.5mm hook and C, make 4 ch and sl st to fi rst ch to form a ring.

Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 5[6] dc into ring, sl st into fi rst dc (5[6] sts).

Round 2 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), (dc2inc) 5[6] times, sl st into first dc (10[12] sts).

Rounds 3–4: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into each dc, sl st to fi rst dc. Fasten off , leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

MAKING UP

Edging

With right side of work facing, using 4.5mm hook and A, rejoin yarn to the back of the hat by the second earfl ap.

Next: Work 1 dc in each of the 10[12] dc across the back of the hat, work 1 dc into each stitch down the edge of the next 9[11] rows of the fi rst earfl ap, ** in the next 3 dc along the lower edge of the earfl ap work dc2inc, 1 dc, dc2inc; work 1 dc into each stitch at the edge of the next 9[11] rows up the other side of the earfl ap**. Do not fasten off .

Join face

Child size only

Work 1 dc in next dc.

Both sizes

With the wrong side of the face to the right side of the front of the hat and the lower edges aligned, work 1 dc in each of the next 22[24] dc of both the face edging and the front of the hat at the same time to join.

Child size only Work 1 dc in next dc.

Both sizes

Work 1 dc into each stitch down the edge of the next 9[11] rows of the second earfl ap, rep from ** to ** to fi nish the edging on the second earfl ap, sl st to fi rst dc (80[90] sts).

If making a crocheted lining, fasten off  and miss out the next round of edging.

Next: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc in each of the 10[12] dc across the back of the hat, ***with wrong sides together, working into the stitches of the earfl ap and earfl ap facing at the same time to join, miss the fi rst dc of the earfl ap facing and work 1 dc into each of the next 10[12] dc, dc2inc, 1 dc into next dc, dc2inc, 1 dc into each of the next 10[12] dc, miss the last dc of the earfl ap facing***, work 1 dc into each of the next 24 dc across the front of the hat, rep from *** to *** to fi nish the edging to join the second earfl ap and earfl ap facing (84[94] sts).

Sl st to next st and fasten off . Using a darning or tapestry needle and the long length of yarn left after fastening off , slip stitch the top edge of the earfl ap facings to the inside of the main piece.

Nose

Weave the length of yarn left after fastening off  the nose through the last round of stitches. Pull the yarn to gather the opening and stitch securely. This will produce a fl attened, round button-shaped nose. Sew the nose in place, just above the edging.

Ears

Push a thin layer of stuffi  ng into the ears. With the length of yarn left after fastening off  the edging, sew the lower edges of the inner and outer pieces together. Bring the two corners of each side from the lower edge of the ear to the middle to shape and stitch to hold in place, using the length of yarn B that was left after fastening off . Sew the ears to the main section of the hat, stitching all around the lower edges to keep them securely in place.

Finishing touches

If making a crocheted lining, attach the twisted cords to the hat after inserting the lining. Weave in all the yarn ends. Place the small black buttons over the larger brown buttons and sew in place for the eyes. Make two 8[12]in (20[30]cm)long striped twisted cords (see page 154) using 3[4] strands each of yarn B and C. Make two 2[2⅜]in (5[6]cm) pompoms (see page 155) in A and attach each to one end of the twisted cord, then stitch the other end of the cord to the tip of the earfl ap.

LINING

See pages 142–5 for how to make and attach a cosy fl eece or crocheted lining.

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